Nature & Travel

Forgotten medieval fortifications of Poland’s northern border

What we can see today is a well-preserved remnant of an embankment that was once up to six-meters-high Photo: Michał Zdanowski
What we can see today is a well-preserved remnant of an embankment that was once up to six-meters-high Photo: Michał Zdanowski
podpis źródła zdjęcia

Most of us have heard of, and some have even seen, the border fortifications built by the Roman Empire on its most northern borders, such as Hadrian’s Wall or Antonine’s Wall in Scotland.

However, only some have heard of similar fortifications in Poland.

There must have been something pretty terrifying about the tribes living beyond the northern borders of the Duchy of Mazovia, one of the provinces of Poland under the rule of the Piast dynasty, the first Polish royal family, that prompted rulers to construct extensive border fortifications to protect their territories.

Also, trade routes like the Amber Road, which dates back to the 1st century AD and stretches from the northern shores of the Adriatic Sea through what is now Poland to the Sambian peninsula by the Baltic Sea, were protected by the fortifications.
Northern branch of the Amber Road leading to the Baltic sea. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
Northern branch of the Amber Road leading to the Baltic sea. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
Thus, while walking along one of the branches of the Amber Road in northern Poland’s Warmia and Mazury region—considered one of Poland’s and Europe’s natural treasures—hikers can encounter several earthen fortifications dating back to the 11th century.

3,000 meters of embankment


At one time, a major trade route from the Duchy of Mazovia to the lands of the Prussian tribes ran between the marshland, where the village of Wały now stands, and Lake Czarne near the village of Zimna Woda.

The strategic location between the lake and unpassable marshes with a hill behind was chosen by the local rulers for defense fortifications.

The best-preserved section stretches over 3 kilometers, along a now almost dried-up river stretching from Zimna Woda in the northwest to Wały in the southeast, which gets its name from the Polish term for a long earthen construction.
Such earthen fortifications, popular in the Middle Ages, were built in a simple yet labor-intensive manner.  Photo: Michał Zdanowski
Such earthen fortifications, popular in the Middle Ages, were built in a simple yet labor-intensive manner. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
What we can see today is a well-preserved remnant of an embankment that was once up to six-meters-high and crowned with wooden fortifications.

Archeologists estimate that the defenses, including a moat, were about 15 meters wide. In front of them were other barriers and clearings, which were usually positioned at a distance, allowing archers to effectively target enemies trying to breach the thorny thickets and fallen trees.

Such earthen fortifications, popular in the Middle Ages, were built in a simple yet labor-intensive manner.

A trench was dug, and the dirt was piled on the edge of the ditch so that the enemy had first to overcome the trench and then advance onto the embankment.
The first mentions of this specific embankment date back to the early 11th Century. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
The first mentions of this specific embankment date back to the early 11th Century. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
Additional elements included a wooden palisade and a walkway on top of the embankment, which improved the defenders’ ability to repel attacks and the logistics of the crew manning the fortifications.

The first mentions of this specific embankment date back to the early 11th Century, while the last reconstruction occurred in the 13th Century at the request of the Mazovian voivode.

After this period, the fortifications gradually lost their strategic importance due to a shift in the border location and the Teutonic tightening its grip on the Prussian lands. Unmaintained for centuries, the ailing earth wall also suffered significant damage during both world wars.
A 1st world war trench dug in the middle of the medieval wall. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
A 1st world war trench dug in the middle of the medieval wall. Photo: Michał Zdanowski

Location: 53°26'11"N 20°36'35"E


To reach what locals call “the wall” turn southeast from Provincial Road 545 in Zimna Woda towards the village of Wały. After passing the stone church on your right, continue straight for about 2 kilometers to the first budlings. Turn right into the forest, and after a few hundred meters, you will see a sign.

To get a closer look at these centuries old walls and feel like a medieval defender gazing bravely into the wild forests of Prussian lands, you will need to enter the forest, so it’s best to have good hiking boots.

Entry is totally free, guarded only by the spirits of the guards of old and the remoteness of the wall.
Entry is totally free, guarded only by the spirits of the guards of old and the remoteness of the wall... and occasional moose wandering around.   Photo: Michał Zdanowski
Entry is totally free, guarded only by the spirits of the guards of old and the remoteness of the wall... and occasional moose wandering around. Photo: Michał Zdanowski
More In Nature & Travel MORE...